Oil Galley Plug
For all 2F, 3F & 3FE engines
There is a oil galley drilled into the head on these engines to access the main oil input to the head. The OEM plug is a press fit soft metal plug. In time this plug works loose, seemingly more prevalant after a rebuild, but many have just had it blow while driving.
One should look to see if this fix has been done to your truck. If this fails you will loose all oil to the top of your engine. This should be a required maintenance item for your truck.
If you have been unfortunate enough to have the plug blow out, but fortunate enough to catch it in time, you can skip the steps to remove the old plug. Lucky you!
I had the misfortune of needing to replace the head on my 3FE last year. I took this opportunity to document the process with the head on the bench, instead of the engine bay.
The first photo should help you get oriented. You are looking at the passenger side (USA) of the head. The rear is to the left. You can see that the oil plug is just above and forward of #5 spark plug.
If you are working in the engine bay, on a 3FE you need to move some heater hoses out of the way. You will also need a drill that will work in tight quarters, such as an angle drill.
The next time I need to do one of these in the engine bay, I think I will remove the valve cover and the head bolt that the pen is closest to below. The Oil Plug Galley passes right through this opening, into the casting and onto the oil hole in the middle of the rocker mount. This is where ALL the oil going to your head passes through!
Removing this head bolt will eliminate the danger of your drill or tap bottoming out. It also allow another avenue to ensure that all contamination (shavings or chunks) from the drilling and tapping are not in your engine.
OK, now that you have got a clear path to your work, try and see the center of the old plug. Center punch it and get ready to drill it. You DO NOT want to try and drill it out completely, as what looks like the center of the plug is not! Use either a #8 or #10 machine thread for the extraction. I use drills, taps and removal do-dads based on what I have on hand.
Center punch:
Pilot drill with a small bit:
Drill with matching bit for your tap and stud:
Next, tap appropriately for the stud you have. I typically use a 10-24 machine thread.
Here you can see the tap passing into the head bolt hole. As I said above, this ensures you that you have fully tapped the galley and lets you be sure the area is clean afterwards.
Here you can see the length of the tap and compare it to how far it worked in above. Notice the bottle of tapping fluid in the upper left? Hint, hint...
Here is the 10-24 stud in place.
Now you can use a slide hammer or make you own with a nut, washer and a crescent wrench. I prefer a gentler approach. I have all sorts of electrical lamp parts hanging around so I put together this do-dad to slowly pull the plug out with traction. Two pair of channel-lock pliers to turn the two parts and extract the plug.
And, here is the plug on the stud!
Now, the galley hole is stepped. The outer area is a larger diameter than the inner area. To illustrate here is the proper bit for the plugs I use. This HAS NOT been drilled into the head! It will fit into the outer section. It is the inner area you need to drill and tap.
Now, drill and tap the inner section to accept the plug you have. I use 8mm x 1.25 pitch stainless steel set screws. For anyone doing this with the head in place, plug the head bolt hole with a rag to catch shavings from all the drilling and tapping.
Here is the length of the tap for comparison.
Now coat the plug with Lok-Tite and screw it in.
Here is the finished product, ready to be installed or reassembled.
If you want to use the same stud and plug sizes as I do:
| #10-24 stud or machine screw x 4"/nuts/washers | #10-24 tap and handle |
| #25 drill for #10-24 machine screw | 8mm x 1.25 pitch SS set screw |
| 8mm tap and handle | 17/64" drill for 8mm machine screw |
| Red Lok-Tite | Cutting & tapping fluid |
| Pilot bits | Angle drill |
Any questions, comments,
corrections or input:
Please post them to the 3FE list at http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/3FE
so the list can benefit from it!
I will also put together a kit of drills, taps and hardware for active 3FE members.
POST UP!
If you really need to contact me directly:
For those working in the engine bay, here are some photos to help find your bearings. Remember, everything is on the passenger (USA) side.
